"Having a fashion business requires attention to every small
detail in every step of the process. Anything that requires micro-management
can never be 100% creative," says Rykiel. 
Shrunken sweaters? Sonia Rykiel did them before anyone else. Words scrawled across shirts and raw, no-hem pieces? Everyone does it now, but it was Rykiel's trademark first. She is one of France's most iconic designers, known for giving women's wear a rebellious, independent edge. She celebrates her 40th anniversary this year. From an exhibition at France's Musee des Arts Decoratifs featuring over 200 garments from her decades-long career to a star-studded show and party during Paris fashion week that attracted designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix and actresses including Emma Watson and Kate Bosworth, the past few months have been one big nonstop celebration. And considering that her company is 100% family owned and operated, one can't blame her. The woman who revolutionized knitwear and put Paris' now famous area St. Germain des Pres on the fashion map takes time with her daughter Nathalie to open up.
In the 40 years since you founded your fashion house, what has
been the biggest change that you have noticed in the fashion world at large?
Sonia: The pace gets faster and faster. In the beginning there were two seasons per
year, now there are six. It's amazing that women want to buy so many new
things throughout a season!
When you set out to create this exhibit, what was your
starting point?
Nathalie: We worked together with Olivier Saillard, the exhibition curator, and he approached it through the eyes of a Sonia Rykiel fan
(that's what he says).
I really wanted my mother and her work to get what she deserves, as she
never had something like this before. For me, it's quite a natural thing
for this brand, for the vision she has maintained and things she has
created, that such an exhibition exists. And I am very proud of it.
As your business has evolved, has the way you approach creating
clothing changed? If so, how?
Sonia: The approach still remains the same,
although I now work collaboratively with a creative team. Their youth and
individual personalities inspire me. I love hearing the music they listen
to, reading the books they read, seeing art they love, going to the places
they find amusing.
Who do you envision the Sonia Rykiel client as being? And how
has she changed over time?
Nathalie: It's quite the same women, but she is older. Now her daughter and
granddaughter wear Sonia Rykiel! The Rykiel style has evolved over time for a younger customer, yet maintains the same
sense of self.
What have been the biggest challenges of achieving longevity?
Sonia: We remain family owned and operated, so visibility remains a challenge when
the big conglomerates spend millions alone in advertising and marketing.
Your anniversary show and party attracted an all-star roster of designers, editors and fashion personalities during Paris fashion week.
Sonia: I was so amazed by what Nathalie did, people from every field--fashion
designers, politicians, actors. In politics everybody fight, and here
she gathered everyone, that's great !
Nathalie : My mother is a very inspiring woman who remains her own person after 40
years in this business. It is
a very strong image for women in France, in the world. She created St.
Germain des Près!
